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Writer's pictureRegina Bauer

TARTU - Where Good Ideas are Born.

Tartu, Estonia's second-largest city, is often regarded as the "intellectual capital" of the country. It holds significant historical and cultural importance and is known for its esteemed academic institutions and vibrant intellectual atmosphere. Tartu is particularly special to me because all my Estonian ancestors hailed from this city, rather than the capital city of Tallinn.

Tartu is the second-largest city in Estonia, with a population of 91,407 as of 2021. Located 186 kilometers (116 miles) southeast of Tallinn, the capital city, Tartu is easily accessible from Tallinn. The most convenient modes of transportation to reach Tartu from Tallinn are by train or plane. These options provide efficient and comfortable travel for visitors and residents looking to commute between the two cities.

Tartu is situated on the banks of the Emajõgi river (Mother-River - EST). This river serves as a crucial waterway, connecting the two largest lakes in Estonia, Lake Võrtsjärv and Lake Peipus. Throughout its history, Tartu was widely recognized by various versions of its historical name, Dorpat. This name was commonly used from the 13th century until the late 19th century, and it held recognition in many parts of the world. The name Dorpat is associated with the city's rich historical heritage and its global presence during that period.

Archaeological findings indicate that the first permanent settlement in the area where Tartu now stands dates back to the fifth century AD. By the seventh century, locals had constructed a wooden fortress on the east side of Toome Hill, known as Toomemägi in Estonian. This early fortress served as a stronghold for the inhabitants and played a significant role in the city's early development. These historical remnants highlight the long-standing human presence in the region and provide insights into Tartu's ancient origins.

Around 1030, Yaroslav I the Wise, the Grand Prince of Kyiv (in present-day Ukraine), initiated an attack on the Tartu region. In this campaign, Yaroslav I defeated the native Ungannian tribe and subsequently established his own fortress in the area, which he named Yuryev. This marked a significant historical event where the region came under the control of the Kyivan Rus', and the newly established fortress played a pivotal role in shaping the future of the city.

Tartu likely remained under the rule of the Kyivan Rus' until 1061 when the Yuryev fort was destroyed by the Sosols, as mentioned in chronicles. The Sosols were believed to be either Oeselians, Sackalians, or another Estonian tribe. However, the locals of Tartu quickly rebuilt the fort after its destruction, showcasing their resilience and determination to maintain control over the region. This event underscores the dynamic and sometimes turbulent history of Tartu during the medieval era, with various tribes and powers vying for dominance in the area.

Throughout its history, Tartu witnessed the conquest and influence of several powers, including the Teutonic Knights, Novgorod and Pskov princes, and Ivan the Terrible. These different rulers and entities sought to assert their control over Tartu at various points in time. Interestingly, Ivan the Terrible used the narrative of Tartu's "founding" by Ancient Rus' to substantiate his territorial claims to the region. This indicates that the historical narrative of Tartu's origins and ownership has been invoked and contested for centuries. The city's history is characterized by a complex interplay of political forces and their interpretations of Tartu's heritage.

During the period of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, Tartu came under its rule, and it was during this time that the city received its red and white flag. The flag was gifted by the Polish king, Stephen Báthory. The red and white flag has remained significant to Tartu's identity, and it continues to be used today. The people of Tartu express gratitude to Poland for the beautiful flag that represents their city, symbolizing the historical ties between the two nations.

In the context of another Polish-Swedish War, Sweden successfully conquered Tartu in 1625, and this time the occupation proved to be permanent. In 1632, King Gustavus Adolphus established the University of Tartu, which has since become the foremost research and educational institution in Estonia. The university's establishment under Swedish rule marked a significant milestone in Tartu's history, laying the foundation for its intellectual and academic prominence that continues to thrive to this day.

In 1704, Tartu was captured by the Russian army in the presence of Peter the Great. During this time, all transportable goods were seized, and in 1708, the remaining defenses, homes, and even the ruins of the bishop's castle were destroyed. As a result, the city suffered extensive damage. Additionally, many residents of Tartu were exiled to various parts of Russia. A tactic of ethnic cleansing, Russia uses up to this days.

During the Romantic Nationalism era in the second half of the 19th century, Tartu emerged as a cultural hub for Estonians. In 1869, the city held Estonia's first song festival, a significant event that celebrated Estonian culture and identity. The festival provided a platform for Estonians to showcase their folk songs and traditions, fostering a sense of national pride and unity. In 1870, Tartu also witnessed the establishment of the first national theatre in Estonia, known as Vanemuine. This cultural institution played a vital role in promoting Estonian-language theatre and further bolstered Tartu's position as a center for Estonian cultural expression.



The birth of the Estonian tricolour is also connected with the Estonian awakening period – the national flag is thus the same age as the political history of its people. The tricolour was born in the academic and national-romantic atmosphere of the University of Tartu during the last quarter of the 19th century. So the flag was one of those wonderful ideas this city is famous for. The original flag is displayed at the Estonian National Museum in Tartu.

From 1895 onwards, the University of Tartu underwent a process of russification, which involved the compulsory use of the Russian language in teaching and administration. This period saw an attempt to suppress the Estonian language and culture within the university. However, during the Estonian War of Independence, which took place from 1918 to 1920, the University of Tartu was reopened on December 1, 1919, as an Estonian language university. This marked a significant turning point, as the university was once again restored as an institution where the Estonian language and culture could flourish. The reopening of the university as an Estonian language institution contributed to the reestablishment of national identity and the promotion of Estonian education and research.


At the conclusion of the Estonian War of Independence, which took place from 1918 to 1920 after World War I, a peace treaty known as the Treaty of Tartu was signed on February 2, 1920. The treaty was signed between Bolshevik Russia and Estonia. An important aspect of the treaty was that Soviet Russia officially renounced any territorial claims to Estonia "for all time." This recognition of Estonia's sovereignty and territorial integrity provided a significant milestone in establishing Estonia as an independent nation-state and securing its borders. The Treaty of Tartu solidified Estonia's status as an independent nation and marked an important step towards international recognition of its sovereignty.

During the first part of 1944, Tartu experienced frequent bombings by the Soviet air forces. These bombings caused significant damage to the city, particularly its historic center. As a result of the war, the historic center of Tartu was largely left in ruins. The bombings and destruction had a lasting impact on the city's architectural heritage and cultural landmarks. The scars of war served as a reminder of the turbulent times and the toll it took on Tartu's physical infrastructure.

After the war, Tartu was declared a "closed town for foreigners" by the Soviet authorities. This designation was due to the construction of an airbase for bombers on the Raadi Airfield. The airbase in Tartu became one of the largest military airbases in the former Eastern Bloc. It housed strategic bombers equipped with nuclear bombs, reflecting the tense geopolitical climate of the time. The presence of such military infrastructure further solidified Tartu's role as a strategic location for the Soviet Union during the Cold War era. The designation as a closed town restricted access to foreigners, emphasizing the sensitive nature of the military installations in the area.


And as we speak of Raadi Airfield, Dzhokhar Dudayev cannot be left unmentioned. From 1987 through March 1990, he commanded nuclear-armed long-range strategic bombers during his post there. He was also the commander of the garrison of Tartu. He learned Estonian and showed great tolerance for Estonian nationalism when in autumn 1990 he ignored the orders to shut down Estonian television and parliament. Barclay Hotel in Tartu has a Dudaev suite in his former office and a plaque on its wall.


Tartu has evolved into a vibrant and modern city, offering a multitude of activities and attractions for visitors and residents alike. Some pictures of Tartu were made by me during various visits.





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